Dog Safety- Riding in cars

There comes a time in every dog and owner’s life when it becomes necessary to take a trip in the car. Whether your dog loves car rides or hates them, there are some important things to consider in order to make the ride safe for both of you.

It’s easy to let dogs just hop in the car and be about our business, however, dogs need to be restrained somehow when riding in the car for safety reasons. Just like children and yourself, you make sure you’re buckled up every time you ride in the car. There are three primary ways to do this for dogs; with a crate, a divider, or a safety harness. Like with young children, dogs should not be allowed to ride in the front seat as the air bags could severely injure or kill them.

Consider the following situation: You have your two dogs loose in the back seat on the way to the park when a car runs a red light and hits you in an intersection. You are unconscious and pinned in your seat from the impact. One dog flew into the window, leaving smashed glass and blood in the back seat. The other dog was thrown into the floorboard and is also pinned there. Paramedics arrive and try to get you out. Without noticing the dogs, they open the back door to get inside the car to get to you, and let the scared and injured dog out of the car. The dog runs into the street and escapes into traffic. As the paramedics begin to assess the situation, the dog in the floorboard begins to get anxious. He is scared and trapped. Dogs act unpredictably when under duress and may try to bite someone trying to save your life, or in an effort to protect themselves from a perceived threat. He begins to growl at the paramedics. To avoid being bitten, the paramedics back off and call animal control to secure the second dog and retrieve the first. They are unable to help you while they wait. Animal control arrives, snares the dog in the floorboard, and keeps it from lashing out at the paramedics. They get you free. When you wake up in the hospital you are informed that one dog ran into the street and caused an accident where it was hit and killed and the other dog was deemed vicious by animal control for its behavior in the car and is in their custody. They want to put him to sleep.

Dogs can also cause distraction, leading to careless driving choices. They can also physically get in the way of us operating the vehicle properly. Can you imagine a small dog crawling under the brake pedal or a big dog trying to get in your lap? What a nightmare that would be.

These situations could be prevented, or at least reduced, with a few protective safety measures.

Crates

I have discussed the different kinds of crates before and mentioned that the plastic kinds are the safest for use while travelling. You can use the wire crates, but they are not nearly as secure, especially since they are designed to collapse. There are custom designed crates made for your car and for safety, however, they are not as widely affordable or as common as plastic crates. These crates can be placed in the backseat of a car or SUV, or in the cargo area of an SUV or truck for your dog to ride in. In the case of an accident, like the situation above, crates are by far the safest tool. Dogs can become projectiles if not secured. The hard plastic keeps the dog from flying everywhere in the event of a collision and it actually protects the dog’s body from a crushing impact. The dog will get banged up a bit, but inside a crate, there’s not very much distance to fly. If paramedics are necessary, they can remove the crates without fear of being bitten and wasting valuable time. The doors and hinges could break open, but these crates were designed for safety and even if damaged, they are supposed to remain functional. As with any safety product, they can fail under the right conditions, but having them available is much better than the alternative. Crates offer protection for both you and your dog, as well as a reasonable assurance as to their location as well as making them easier to notice.

Crates, when used for car travel, should be properly secured inside the car, much like a car seat. It does not do much good to have a crate as a projectile instead of a dog, so make sure they are fixed tightly to the seat or other strong anchor point.

Harnesses

As owners become more aware of dog safety issues, new products have been developed, including car safe harnesses. Some have even been crash tested. These harnesses are unlike typical dog walking harnesses because they provide extra support and cushion across the center of the dog’s chest. In the case of sudden braking or an accident, the dog’s weight would be thrown against the front of the harness. Regular harnesses would not give the necessary support to keep the dog from injury and could even cause an injury to the dog’s legs, neck, or shoulders.

Harnesses are a good answer for those with small cars, large dogs, multiple dogs, or a combination of these things where keeping crates in the car for rides is not practical or possible. To use a harness, make sure that is adjusted to your dog and fits well. It should not be constricting or cause a painful bind for your dog in its “armpits”. You should be able to slip one or two fingers under the back and chest of the harness. The goal is to protect the dog, not make it uncomfortable, so make sure that he/she can stand up, lie down, and sit comfortably while wearing it. You will also need to get a secure way to tether your dog inside the car. I like products that snap into the seat belt receivers and clip onto the harness. Make sure that whatever method you use can withstand the force of your dog’s weight and is appropriate for use inside your car. The harness does no good if the tether breaks.

The tether also ensures that your dog will not escape if the car door is opened and that it can only reach a certain distance, giving paramedics a certain “safety zone” in which to operate around a frightened dog. Tethers can also be purposefully cut or disconnected and used as a temporary leash to remove the dog, or the dog could be grabbed and lifted by the harness instead of having to touch the dog directly. While not necessarily ideal, in the situation above, a harness and tether would allow for some distance and options for those trying to help.

Barriers/Dividers

Car barriers and dividers help keep your dogs from reaching you in the front seat, providing a confined area for them to be. This is very useful for reducing distractions on the road. Some dividers are custom fitted for your make and model of vehicle. Others are a “one size fits most” product. Some are very flimsy and provide minimum protection. The problem with dividers is that if not appropriately sized or installed, they become ineffective in the event of a crash. Your dogs may not push hard enough to dislodge them, but an accident might knock it free and then you’d have not only flying dogs, but also a large metal barrier to worry about. Some can be fitted and installed specifically for your car and may be able to withstand such an impact. While this does keep the front area of the car accessible in the event of a collision, the back would be cut off from the front, even for paramedics. They may need that leverage from the back seat and an intact barrier could restrict their options. Also, the dogs could escape if the doors were opened or if the glass was broken. The barrier only keeps them from flying out the windshield or jumping into the front seat. It is safer than having loose dogs in the car, however, there is nothing holding the dogs back from escape or inflicting harm. Of course, if the barrier is between the cabin and the cargo area of an SUV (as pictured) instead of between the front and back seats, the benefits increase dramatically. Based only on the situation above, the outcome would probably have been very similar to what it was without any restraint at all. Barriers can be very useful in some situations and are certainly safer than having dogs loose in the car, however they are limited in their ability to restrain the dogs in an open car.

Other tips

To ensure no difficulties on your drive, start getting your dog acclimated to the crate or harness long before they ever set foot in the car with it.

Never leave an animal unattended in a car.

A sticker, magnet or window cling that indicates there may be pets on board could help alert paramedics to the existence of your pet.

Carry a copy of your dog’s vet records with you in the car. In the event that your pet is injured, it would help not only to know the animal’s history but to contact the regular vet for additional information or questions. If you have to leave your pet in a kennel or boarding facility, you will also need those records, which is why they are particularly necessary when travelling.

Do not allow dogs to ride in the backs of pickups unrestrained. It is illegal in most areas. Even if the dog is restrained, road debris can cause serious injuries to a dog that isn’t protected by a crate.

If you get a custom crate for your car, be sure that it meets certain safety expectations before proceeding.

As much as dogs love it, it is probably not a good idea to let them stick their heads out of the window, especially if you're going very fast (40+ mph). If even a small piece of debris hits them in the face, it could hurt a lot and potentially cause serious problems. Also, if the window is open wide enough, the dog could jump out. We all think "my dog would never do that", and then they see that squirrel or other dog and out they go.

Not all products are made equal. Do your research before deciding on a brand. Children's car seats have a minimum standard that they have to pass. Products for dogs have no such standard. Make sure what you're getting will do the job that you expect of it.

I use a dog sling/hammock seat cover to protect my car since one of my dogs gets carsick on occasion. This is not an acceptable barrier or restraint. Though quite useful, they require an additonal measure to be safe. The same goes for the elevated seats for smaller dogs. Those seats are often seen in the front seat of cars, however, I believe they should be put in the back in case of air bag deployment.

Kong Stuffin' - Frozen Peanut Butter Kong

One of my absolute favorite dog toys is the Kong. My dogs love them too. Kong sells many products to stuff your Kong with, but they can be expensive and there are plenty of things at home that make just as good of stuffing as the things they sell in the store. Today, I'm going to share with you one of the many ways I stuff my dogs' Kongs.

Required
Kong
Peanut Butter
Dog Food (or food of similar size)
Milkbone (or other long/skinny treat)

First, I use a spoon some peanut butter into a bowl. I make sure to get enough to stuff my dogs' Kong about halfway. By doing this, I avoid any contamination from dog slobber that may be left on or inside the Kong so that I feel comfortable eating my peanut butter. (I'm just a little germ conscious.)

Next, I use a knife to spread the peanut butter into the Kong. I try to get it along the sides of the Kong and down in the bottom especially. You can tap the Kong on your table or counter to get the peanut butter to settle at the bottom. Leave a little bit of peanut butter in the bowl.

Then, I take a little bit of my dog's normal dog food, or similar sized treats, and sprinkle some into the peanut butter. I'll use the knife to push some pieces down into the peanut butter.

After the dog food is sprinkled inside, I'll take my Milkbone (I use Large Milkbones and a Large Kong for my 50 lb dogs) and stuff it into the Kong, leaving one end of the bone sticking out. If the ends of the bone are too large to stuff, you can squish your Kong to make the opening more like an oval. This may make it long enough to fit. If the bone just won't fit, you can break off one of the large end pieces and stick the end you broke into the Kong, leaving the rest of the bone sticking out.

Next, take the remaining peanut butter and "seal" the end of the Kong around the Milkbone.

Finally, I'll stick the Kong in the freezer overnight to give to my dogs as a tasty frosty treat in the morning.

Other tips

You can also use things such as apples or other healthy snacks to stuff in your Kong that your dog wouldn't normally eat. You'd be surprised how far a little bit of hard work and peanut butter goes.

Jumping up - What to do?

This post was written in a response to a question from my facebook page.

So your dog gets a little excited and jumps on you occasionally. Or maybe it jumps all the time, craving attention. Don't worry, with patience and consistency, jumping up is one of the easiest behaviors to phase out.

First, you have to ask yourself if you are giving the dog enough time and attention. Is your dog jumping because there's no other way that you pay attention to him or her? Do you make time to play with your dog or do things your dog enjoys? If not, this may be a contributing factor to your problem. For this to be effective, you need to make sure your dog gets the attention it craves in good ways so that your dog doesn't feel as much of a need to jump up.

The easiest way, and one of the most effective too, to get your dog to want to stop jumping is two-fold. First, you must completely ignore him/her when jumping up. Second, you must praise your dog when "all four are on the floor".

Dogs lick each others faces to show affection, and your dog may want to do the same to you. Your face is much higher than your dog's, so jumping seems like a natural choice for him/her. If your dog normally greets you by jumping up, freeze in place, cross your arms over your chest, and then turn/look away from your dog. No matter how much he jumps, whines or barks, do not pay attention to him. Don't even look. When the dog gives up, calmly pet your dog with "all four on the floor" and give verbal praise and maybe a treat. Do not act excited because this could trigger a jumping reaction again. If your dog jumps while petting, stand back up and ignore until all four are on the floor. If your dog knows commands like "sit", you can ask them of your dog when your dog is calm, however, you want your dog to learn to calm himself down and think it through without requiring a cue from you. You can keep treats near your door for easy praise, or even in your car to carry in with you.

Now, when your dog is calm and sitting nicely or doing his own thing, go up and show him affection for being calm. This will help to lessen the reaction when your dog is actually excited and wants to jump. By showing affection, giving treats, or verbal praise when calm (and all four are on the floor), your dog will give you more calm behaviors in hopes of getting more praise. Also, get down on your dog's level for games and affection sometimes. By doing this, you make yourself more accessible and show that he/she doesn't have to jump to see you properly. Only do this when the dog is calm, though, because they can easily jump all over you when you're on their level, undoing progress.

Dogs do what pays off for them. If being calm pays, they'll be calm. If bouncing around like a maniac gets you to notice them, that's what they'll do. If they've been doing this and rewarded for it (with attention) for a long time, the jumping habit will be harder to phase out. However, if everyone is in on it and follows 1. ignore when all four aren't on the floor and 2. give praise and affection when calm, your dog will stop jumping eventually. Never allow anyone, not even a visitor, to pet your dog when all four feet aren't on the floor. This reinforces bad behavior.

Dogs crave our attention and if we don't give them enough of it, they will create ways to get our attention, such as jumping up. Even if the attention that they receive is negative attention (scolding, etc) it's still attention and rewarding to them. Think of it like a young child who is constantly poking you and being obnoxious. They're doing it for attention, even if you are angry or frustrated with them. Dogs who jump up are typically either very excitable or not getting enough attention or both. By showing our dog attention and praise for doing the right things, he'll have no need to do the wrong things to get noticed.

It won't happen overnight. As with most training solutions, it takes time. But, if everyone is consistent about ignoring the dog when it jumps and removing the reward (attention) that it gets from jumping, and instead rewards all four on the floor, your dog will get the hint and stop jumping up.

If you have any comments or questions, please ask them. I will do my best to address your situation.

Crate Training- Choosing a Crate

What is Crate Training?

Crate training is the process of getting your dog accustomed to using a crate as his/her den. A crate is a place for the dogs to call their own and have some quiet time. It is not a place for punishment or isolation. Crate training a dog can help with house training dogs and puppies as well as preventing destruction of the home. When done properly, both dog and owner are happy.

How to Choose a Crate Type

When you decide to crate train a dog, the first thing you'll need is a crate. Choosing the right crate for your dog can seem a little daunting at first. There are two main types of crates,  wire ones and plastic ones. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. You should choose the crate based on your usage of it, your dog's personality, and your own personal preference. What works better for one dog and owner may not work best for you.

Wire Crates

Wire crates are collapsible, sturdy, and provide good visibility and air flow. However, some dogs find the openness of the wire crate to be unnerving. Dogs like their dens to feel cozy and they may not get that feeling of security in a wire crate. This is especially true of nervous dogs. Of course, not all dogs will mind and most will learn to like their crate regardless. If the wire crate makes your dog feel insecure, you can help this by buying a wire crate cover or draping a blanket or towel over the crate. A big plus to these crates are their ability to collapse and fold flat. If you have multiple dogs or a small car, this might be a good option for you when you travel. They are relatively easy to clean, with a bottom tray that slips out. Still, in the case your dog has a big accident or spills the water bowl (or both), the tray may not be able to hold it all and it can potentially spill outside the wire of the crate. In most cases, spillage would not be an issue and some versions are made with a tray with a "moat" to collect any spilled liquid.  If your dog is a die hard escape artist, you may have to reinforce the crate with something like zip ties, which will make it harder to move around. Wire crates are not approved for airline use.

Plastic Crates

Plastic crates are designed for safety. Plastic crates are the only way for medium or large dogs to travel in the cargo hold of airplanes. They come apart for cleaning and storage, however the pieces do not fold flat like wire crates, so they take up more room. Dogs may appreciate the closed-in, den-like feel of these crates, however they will feel warmer due to the limited ventilation. If you live in a hot climate, your dog may not appreciate the lack of air circulation and his body heat being trapped within the crate. If you have an SUV or truck, these crates are safe to strap into the backseat or cargo area for car rides. Just like some dogs will get nervous and feel unprotected in a wire crate, some dogs might feel too closed in and get nervous in a plastic crate. It depends on your dog's personality and preferences.

Other crate types

Soft crates are convenient for travel, however, they are not recommended for home use if your dog has any sort of desire to escape. These crates either pop up or fold to collapse and don't take up much space. Still, they are cloth sided and not as durable as their solid plastic or metal counterparts. Determined or bored dogs could easily split seams or chew through mesh. These crates should be used with supervision. They are useful as portable dog houses or beds, but probably not for crate training. The cloth, depending on brand, may be water resistant, but cleanup from these crates could be more difficult if liquid does in fact soak through.



A new craze for those with smaller dogs is to carry them around in "doggy duffel bags". These come in various styles, fashions and prints. Due to their size and weight, this type of dog carrier would not be useful for large breeds. Like soft crates, these should only be used with supervision as determined dogs could easily escape. These crates are designed to be carried with you, not for use as a den in the home, so they are not acceptable for crate training.
  
How to Choose a Crate Size

Sizing a crate can be somewhat difficult if your dog is not fully grown. If your dog is an adult, it is simple to pick a crate size that is both comfortable for your dog and serves its purpose.

Before you go to the store, measure your dog. Take measurements down the back, from tip of the nose to the base (not tip) of the tail. Also measure how tall your dog is both from the floor to its back and from the floor to the tops of his/her ears.

The measurements will come in handy when you're trying to judge crates by their dimensions. If there are demo crates set up in the pet store, it is really helpful to bring your pet (if allowed) and try them out. Not all stores do this, however, and eyeballing measurements can be tricky for some people. Crates are a fairly large investment and you want to make sure you pick the one that will fit your dog well. The crate should be big enough for the dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down in comfortably. So, it should be taller than the height of your dog to its ears. You don't want your dog to be crouching all the time. It should also be longer than the tip of the nose to the base of the tail. If it's a little long, it's not a problem, it just can't be too short. Make sure that the crate is wider than the height of your dog to its back. This is a good indication of whether or not it can easily turn around and also ensures your dog can stretch out on its side to lay down in it. If a crate size meets or slightly exceeds all these minimum measurements, it should be the size for you.

You don't want a crate too small because obviously your dog won't be comfortable, however having a crate too large is also not a good thing, especially if you're using crate training as a house training tool. If the crate is too big, the dog can eliminate on one side and retreat to the other, learning that it's okay to go in the crate and it won't get dirty. Dogs don't like to soil where they sleep or get dirty like that, so if they can't escape their messes, they're more likely to hold it in. This is especially true of puppies. If you do have a large breed puppy, you will want to purchase a crate big enough for its approximate adult size and section off pieces of it. As your puppy grows, you expand the space available to it.

You want the crate to be your dog's cozy little safe place, not a tight squeeze or a giant pen. To be effective, proper sizing is very important.


See the next step: Simple Steps to a Crate-trained Dog

Dog Collars- What do you use?

Today's discussion is about collars. Please see the description of each photo to learn more about these types of collars. If there's another you'd like to see, please tell me in the comments. Feel free to share your own knowledge and experiences with these as well. 

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This is a traditional buckle flat collar. Flat collars are also seen with quick snaps. These collars are great for holding the dog's tags and identification. If you have a dog that pulls, flat collars can put pressure on their trachea, causing problems for the dog. These are the most widely used and accepted collars. Even if you don't use them for walking your dog, I suggest keeping one on all the time just to hold the tags.

 
This is a traditional snap flat collar. Flat collars are also made with buckles. These collars are great for holding the dog's tags and identification. If you have a dog that pulls, flat collars can put pressure on their trachea, causing problems for the dog. These are the most widely used and accepted collars. Even if you don't use them for walking your dog, I suggest keeping one on all the time just to hold the tags.

This is a martingale collar, sometimes referred to as a check choke collar. This one has a cloth extender, though some are made with chain. It tightens if the dog pulls, but only to a certain extent. For this reason, it is considered safer than traditional choke collars. It is also used for dogs who have small heads for their neck size to prevent their escape in the event that they pull backwards. Breeds such as Greyhounds often need martingale collars.

This is a martingale collar, sometimes referred to as a check choke collar. This one has a chain, but they are available with all nylon too. It tightens if the dog pulls, but only to a certain extent. For this reason, it is considered safer than traditional choke collars. It is also used for dogs who have small heads for their neck size to prevent their escape in the event that they pull backwards. Breeds such as Greyhounds often need martingale collars.

This is a traditional dog harness. Harnesses are used for little dogs or for dogs who don't tolerate pressure on their necks. Keep in mind when using a harness that they can sometimes promote pulling, as it works with the pulling power of their bodies rather than against it. Think of sled dogs. They use harnesses to pull the sled because it's the most efficient way to capture their pulling power. There are some "no pull" harnesses, however, if a dog really wants to pull, it will, no matter what harness or collar it is wearing. Training is really the only way to deal with severe pulling.


This is a head collar. The most popular kind is known as the Gentle Leader. It works on the same principle as a horse halter, being that if you control the head you can control the body. They work for the most part, unless your dog is very determined. However, keep in mind that these collars do not teach your dog not to pull but merely prevent it from doing so. Iif you put on another type of collar for walks, the pulling would probably resume.

This is a choke collar. These collars are thought to help deter pulling, however, some dogs will pull through the pain and cut off their air supply. There's a reason they are called choke collars. They choke! Some trainers still believe they can be effective tools, however, you must know how to properly use them and put them on. Dogs should never be left unattended with choke chains on because if they get caught on something, the dog could potentially strangle itself trying to get free.

This is a prong or pinch collar. They usually made in the martingale style but feature "teeth" that put pressure on the dog's neck when they pull or you pull back on them. Although some trainers swear that they are effective and do not cause harm, I prefer to teach my dog with non-confrontational methods which do not rely on intimidation. Some people get these because they want their dog to look tough. Some use them as a crutch to contain unruly dogs. Very few know how to use these properly and effectively and they are not for the average dog owner or they can be seriously misused. I personally do not recommend this type of collar but everyone is entitled to their own beliefs. If you are thinking about getting a choke collar, please do research or consult with a veterinarian or professional dog trainer.